Procured the Disc Type Radial Arm Guards from 4X4 Forza and did a successful DIY fitment at home. Here is my cheat sheet , in case someone wishes to do a future DIY!
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Installing the Disc type Radial arm guards is a pretty easy and straightforward job.
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Can be done on any flat surface with the car stationary, it does not need to be jacked up. Please ensure that the steering is straight and the wheels are perfectly pointed forward.
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It is a 2 person job as you will need an additional pair of hands. You need to be comfortable sliding under the car and working underneath it ! Please do ensure that the car is cold before going underneath it !
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The OEM Bolthead and Nuts are 17mm while the one from 4X4 Forza are 19 mm. You will need 17mm sockets to dismount and 19mm sockets to mount. A rachet that works with these sockets will be best !
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You will need a torque wrench to tighten the nuts to OEM Torque values ! (Chassis side is 73Nm and Axle side is 95Nm – 54 and 70 Lb-Ft respectively)
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You will need two sockets of the same size , one to keep the bolt head stationary and the other one to loosen or tighten the nuts as the case may be. The bolt heads , particularly the new ones with the kit tend to rotate when tightened. This is one case where you will welcome an additional pair of hands holding the bolt head stationary as you loosen or tighten the nuts!
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The rear arms are pretty easy to do as the bolts are not under load in the stationary position. It comes off easily and the arm does not move. So the hole alignment with the radial arm bush stays fixed.
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A tip to ensure that the alignment stay true. After taking off the nut and before trying to take the OEM bolt out , take a new bolt that came with the kit and introduce it into the opening from the other side , back to back as you pull the OEM bolt out. Take another supplied bolt , mount the Disc and the supplied bush and start sliding in from the other side – back to back while pushing the placeholder bolt out. Hole alignment will stay perfectly true !
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The front arms are more difficult to do than the rear arm as the bolts are under load. You will not be able to simply pull the OEM bolts out. Use wheel chocks or bricks to make the rear wheels immobile. Ask your assistant to gently push inward (or pull outward) the front wheel on the side you are taking the bolt out. This will ease the tension on the bolt and it can be slid out. Use the tip given above to slide another bolt in to keep the alignment in place. The wheel will again need to be pushed gently back (Or pulled) to get the new bolts with the discs in ! (Don’t try to rotate the tyre. pull or push the wheel as whole)
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Front passenger side is the most difficult to do as the exhaust pipes leave very little space to rotate the torque wrench.
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The Larger Discs and smaller bushes go in the rear and the smaller discs and larger bushes go in the front. The disc with the cut is for the inner side of the driver side arm.
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Ensure that the retaining nut is torqued properly on all four arms. Thread locker is not necessary as there is a check nut.
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Tighten the check nut on top of the holding nut , the check nut does not need to be torqued , it just needs to be tightened against the retaining nut. Flanges on both nuts , when seen one on top of the other , should be a little bit askew and not aligned perfectly together. (Both nuts are same , any one can be used as a retaining nut and the other as the check nut!)
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Please do retain the OEM Nuts and Bolts !
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Wish you a rewarding DIY !